If you've read my post about Monta, you understand my love for a good bowl of creamy tonkotsu ramen. Now that I've moved back to San Diego, I feel like there's a big soup bowl sized part of my stomach missing I just had to fill. This brings me to Underbelly located in Little Italy, a stones throw away from the downtown area. Underbelly takes the traditional Tonkotsu concept and fuses modern ingredients into the mix to create a refreshing ramen experience.
And here it is, aptly named the underbelly ramen bowl. The broth is subtle, light on the cream factor but definitely enjoyable with all the traits of tonkotsu I enjoy. And yes the pork flavor is there, prominent in it's own right. The noodles here are the thicker type with a thick bite and aren't my favorite but definitely gets the job done. The meats are what makes the ramen really shine here. On the right is the Chashu Belly, roasted tender with a good fat:meat content ratio and a really straight forward pork flavor that goes well with the broth. At the top of the picture is Kurobuta sausage, a pork sausage with great snap and smokey flavor. The sausage takes a different approach on the pork flavor you don't commonly find in tonkotsu and creates a great contrast to the broth and adds flavor that goes well with the starch of the noodles. On the left is an applewood smoked bacon. The bacon is thick and carries the flavor of the smoking process into the soup. As any bacon would be, this is fatty and carries the applewood flavor adding a great dimension to the ramen. The way I look at it, it's kind of a re-imagining of the traditional chashu that makes Underbelly so unique.
Sorry for the quality on this pic, this was taken on a night visit and let's just say the lighting isn't the best! Anywho, this is another offering from underbelly, this one being called Belly of the beast. The noodles and broth are the same found in a bowl of Underbelly as described above. Again, the winning factors for this bowl of goodness are the house made meat toppings. What you can slightly see over top are the hoison glazed short ribs. The meat was very tender with a great beef flavor. The glaze over the surface created a char from the cooking process which added a very welcomed burned flavor to the meat which was great in depth of flavor. On the left is the brisket which also was tender but took on a very straight forward approach to beef with a more subtle flavor and added the much needed meat content to the ramen. The dumplings on the right were probably the most interesting being filled with oxtail. For those not familiar with oxtail, the meat is high in fat and collagen content pretty much due to the bone marrow aspect of the meat. These properties carried over well into dumpling form as each bite was very rich, fatty and beefy working very well with the pork broth. This ramen was definitely a dive into the fusion aspect of this place.
Sure they have the red Togarashi pepper you can add, but they also have a chili sauce too! Look for this little jar, it contains a dialed down ghost pepper puree that caters to those heat seekers. Although the sauce is made mild, you have the hottest pepper hidden in there and the more you add, the hotter it gets. The ghost pepper sauce isn't even just about heat though, they managed to get fruity properties of the pepper to come through to add a great flavor to your soup. Add with caution, but definitely add some.
Until now I've been relegated to the most traditional of Tonkotsu ramen which I enjoyed more than anything. Underbelly has opened me up to the potential of ramen, using different ingredients to add depth and complexity that I frankly didn't see possible until now. Underbelly goes beyond simply adding odds and ends to your ramen but rather well thought out meats that compliment the flavors rather than overpower them.
Quick Tip: For you first timers, be prepared to drink from the bowl! Underbelly does not serve soup spoons, ironically they take the traditional approach and prefer you to slurp the broth straight from the bowl just like the mainland....enjoy!
Underbelly
750 W. Fir St.
San Diego, CA 92101
619.269.4626San Diego, CA 92101